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Frequently Asked Questions

  • 1. How do I select what drill bit to use for my project?
  • 2010-7-20

Depending on the material to be drilled and the tool you are using, will determine what drill bit you use. Starcraft offers various types of drill bits:HSS drill bits, Wood drill bits, Masonry drill bits,etc.

HSS drill bits feature premium high speed steel and a duotone finish for fast chip removal in wood, metal and plastic. No center punch needed: 135° Split Points are self-centering and penetrate faster with less pressure...will not "walk" or "wander" at the starting surface. Reduced 3/8" shank fits all 3/8" or larger chucks.

Wood Drill Bits include a wide range,such as brad point drill bits, spade bits,Auger Bits and forstener bits.They are designed for drilling soft and hard wood,chipboard and plywood.

Masonry drill bits feature an insert of tungsten carbide that is brazed into the steel to provide the cutting edges,designed for drilling into brick, block, stone, quarry tiles or concrete. Masonry bits typically are used with a hammer drill. The bit is both rotated and hammered into the workpiece. The hammering breaks up the masonry at the drill bit tip. The flutes of the drill bit body carry away the dust. Rotating the bit brings the cutting edges onto a fresh portion of the hole bottom with every hammer blow.

  • 2. How to use carbide router bits?
  • 2010-7-20

If you've ever broken a bit, you've probably wanted to know how to use router bits without breaking them. Carbide can snap from vibration and bouncy chattering. Some damage may be inevitable, but the first defense starts by using a shorter length whenever possible. Use a bit just as long as needed and no longer. If it flexes while pushing too hard, the stress can result in chipped carbide. Steel can flex and return to shape, but aggressively routing dense hardwood can crack brittle carbide or compromise its attachment. Narrow, long bits are prone to chipping and breaking, and typically come minus the benefit of guarantee. For example, this straight plunge bit with a half inch shank, a 1/2 inch cutting dia., and a 2 in. long flute is likely to flex.

On a 1/4 inch shank with a 1/4 in. cutting dia., even a 1/2 in. one risks cracking. If you need extended length, use a wider one that has a better chance of avoiding damage from flexing. A shank size of 1/4 inch is quite flexible. A fatter one is stiffer and won't break as easily.

If you notice a wobble or noisy buzz, stop. Locate the source of vibration and reduce it to a calm hum. Stabilize the work. In hard materials, go easy instead of rushing. The harder you are routing, the more the binder could break down. Routing by consistently sweeping one way is wiser than abruptly churning back and forth in choppy, unpredictable jerks. As the grip is tested by the strain of such usage, it might slip. Impact can crack carbide. Try to avoid hitting knots or embedded metal fragments.

  • 3. How to Choose the Right Circular Saw Blade?
  • 2010-7-21

Learn how blades are named. Some are obvious: A masonry blade is used to cut brick. A flooring blade is made for cutting flooring and rough lumber. This type of blade can even handle an occasional nail.

Recognize that the more teeth that are on the blade, the cleaner the cut. Carbide-tipped blades are more expensive, but they require less frequent sharpening and make the smoothest cuts.

Select a ripping blade for long cuts with the grain. Don't use this blade with plywood. The crosscut blade can cut plywood easily, as well as regular wood (across the grain).

Use a combination blade for general-purpose woodwork. The large teeth leave a rough-cut and the blade can be used for cross cutting or with-the-grain rips.

Look for a hollow-ground planer for smooth miter and crosscuts. There is also a hollow-ground plywood blade that cuts plywood and paneling without splintering.

Choose a non-ferrous metal/plastic-cutting blade for aluminum, brass, copper, lead, and most solid plastics. Pick up a thin-kerf blade to minimize wood waste when cutting.

Try a nail-cutter if you're doing heavy remodeling. You may run across hardware in the wood. 

Abrasive cut-off blades are used for cutting tougher materials, like some stones, ceramic and metal. This blade must be matched to the material, and you need a saw that has an aluminum or magnesium guard.

Diamond blades have a diamond-bearing edges. This blade cuts the toughest types of materials, like marble, tile and stone.

There are many more types of blades than this. Choose a blade based on the type of material you will be cutting.

  • 4. What is the difference between a wet blade and a dry blade?
  • 2010-7-21

The main difference is the way the diamond matrix is attached to the core. Wet blades are brazed, while dry blades are generally laser welded. Laser welding has a higher melting point. Besides the weld, another difference is the bond. Dry blades usually have a slightly softer bond to allow easier cutting without water to cool and lubricate the cut.

  • 5.Do I have to use water with the core drills?
  • 2010-7-21

Most definitely!
You must use water with either the sintered or electroplated core drills. This enables the ground debris to flush away from the area you are drilling and allows the drill to have easy up and down movement through the glass. The water also helps keep the area you are grinding through cool so you don't stress your glass too much.

  • 6. Should I use a Plated Core Drill or a Sintered Core Drill?
  • 2010-7-22

This depends greatly on what type of work you are doing and how often you are doing it.

In general, if you only need to drill a few holes, we recommend going with the Plated Core drills. They are more versatile in the sense that you do not need a center water feed, and you do not have to use them in a drill press if you don't want to. They are far more forgiving of being out of alignment with the hole you are drilling and will withstand more abuse before breaking.

On the flipside, they have far less longevity than a Sintered Core drill, so if you are looking at drilling many holes for a extended period of time, a plated drill will end up driving you crazy.

Sintered Core drills have several layers of diamond throughout the entire tip of the core drill, so as it wears down, you can run it through a dressing stick and expose new diamonds. This extends the lifespan and usefullness of the drill significantly over the plated drills. Of course, with that softer metal tip on the sintered core drill, that also means it really requires a center water feed (another up front cost) and use in a drill press. You can use a straight shank adaptor with the sintered core drill and use it handheld without a center water feed, but you run the risk of ripping the diamond tip off the drill if you're not very very careful.